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Sixty Years' Memories of Art and Artists XXII . A GREAT portion of my life has been spent in North Conway and my thoughts turn pleasantly to that place. For there I have met so many artists of repute and intelligence, and have passed so many pleasant days in sketching and theorizing with them, that most of the associations and remembrances of them are delightful. I might mention. among these, Kensett Casilear, Hubbard, Colman, Huntington, Durand, David Johnson, Hill, Bierstadt, Wilde, Gay, Wordsworth. Thompson, Gerry, Ordway and many others of much talent and keen observation. In association with these men of diverse opinion, one's mind grew broader and more charitable. A word of description somewhat in detail, is appropriate here. The dome of Mount Washington is perhaps the highest point of land east of the Rocky Mountains and the Mississippi River, or if not so it has together with its brothers of the Presidential Range more of the true characteristics of Alpine formation and architecture than any other. Its scarred, weather-beaten masses, seen from a near point of view, are grandly impressive. One fully realizes the sense of grandeur given by the precipitous rocky crags, tumbling cascades, the ragged slides from Webster and Willey and all the phenomena of savage nature here seen. Near the gate of the notch stands the Craw-ford House and almost in front of it is the pretty sheet of water called Saco Lake, for from it pours out the little stream called the Saco River. It makes its way through the narrow defile of the gate of the notch, struggling by the huge masses of boulders which threaten to choke its progress down the steep way to the broader reaches below. Three hundred feet above its bed and along the rough sides of Mounts Willard and Willey is built with cunning craft the Maine Central Rail-road. The trip over the road to the first town below, Bartlett, is a thrilling experience and savors of terrors and awe to persons of timid nature. But no accidents have occurred to the thousands of travellers of every season. The Saco receives great accessions to its volume from the cascades that come leaping down the sides of the great cliffs, and soon becomes quite formidable in its rapid progress onward. After leaving Bartlett the wild element vanishes and the river flows through bright green fields and by lessening heights. But still the views are full of charm and the richly-wooded slopes are an unfailing delight to the eye. On reaching lower Bartlett the view to the south, embracing the noble Moat Mountain, and the grand old Kearsarge, is a grand compensation for the loss of the austere ruggedness of the Notch now left behind. After passing Glen station we reach Intervale where the valley broadens into delightful reaches of velvety green fields, dotted with swaying elms and maples in picturesque groups. This view from Intervale cannot be surpassed for living, glowing beauty by anything in New England. It is simply a perfect picture. Mount Washington and its lesser companions of the great mountain range are sufficiently far away to give them the charms of atmosphere and color. varying with almost every moment. This view has been painted many times and by artists too of great distinction, but never has the ideal been realized. Its elusive charm can not be fully grasped. As we still follow the Saco, soon North Conway comes in view, the valley perceptibly widening, the river flowing placidly by the fertile fields of grain and corn. Many years ago, perhaps thirty-two or thirty-three years, in anterailroad days North Conway and its surroundings was vastly different from what the tourist finds it today. The Kearsarge House was then in a state of transition from the humble wayside inn to its present liberal proportions. The Washington House was at its highest point of evolution, from the simple tavern kept by Daniel Eastman. Then the McMillan House had just started on its successful and honorable career. Then Jackson was a small suburb of North Conway and only visited by fishermen who sometimes got a meal or lodging at the Trickey Tavern, where, also, the coaches from the Glen House stopped to dine. Then most of the visitors to the Mountains came by coach from Centre Harbor, a weary ride of forty miles. Now, through the tact and genius of Gen. Marshall Wentworth, Jackson has been transformed from its former insignificance into what might be called one of the most fascinating resorts in the mountain region. This has attracted hither many cottagers and pleasant houses are springing up in great numbers. Among the most quaint and pleasing of these is the one just finished and furnished by Mr. Frank H. Shapleigh, the artist. He calls his cottage " Maple Knoll " and it is situated just back of the Jackson Falls House, but is higher and farther up the road so the outlook towards the south includes the fine outline of the Moat and the lovely valley below. The cottage is unique in architecture, painted in a soft gray tone which harmonizes pleasantly with near surrounding foliage. But the great attraction of it all is the manner in which Mr. Shapleigh has furnished the interior. It is like a great museum of curios brought from most quarters of the world and placed in delightful confusion in every nook and corner of the artistically arranged rooms. He has a natural love for the surroundings, of the furniture of past days, the quaint old bits our grandfather delighted in, and knows how to select what is most artistic and beautiful. But with all this the house is full of comfort and convenience. And he must be a happy man to think he has surrounded himself with so much that is quaint and beautiful, and I know him well enough to believe that he is. |
